We’ve had a cracking time here in the Loire Valley. And I feel like if you can have a good time in a place in the dead of winter when everything is shut, then it’s a good sign. 

We did have a little moment of panic when a World War type air raid siren went off at about midday. Not sure why. Wasn’t sure if it was a call for the fire brigade, a testing of some kind of emergency drill, or an “everyone evacuate or you’re gonna die” alarm. We waited with our shoes on and ruck sacks in hand to see if anything started burning or for zombies to appear on the horizon, but it was all calm outside so who knows. If you have any idea about this phenomenon please let us know in the comments section, I am very curious. 

We had a trip out to Angers, which is a friendlier city than the name suggests. The city’s massive chateau is the much photographed monument in this neck of the woods and for good reason. It’s 17 towers stretch up to 190 feet in some parts and it looks stunning whichever way you look at it. Sadly we didn’t go in as they don’t allow dogs (boo! hiss!) but it’s pretty darn impressive from the outside. We pootled around the town for a while, visited a few shops and then stopped in for a hot chocolate to warm up as the wind chill was still bloody cold on any scale you care to measure it.

On Saturday, we did what the French do and headed to market. Every town has one and let me tell you it’s the way to live. You get there about 10am and have a coffee and catch up with friends. You mooch about the stalls and buy what you think looks fresh and delicious, no recipe in mind, just the fresh catch of the day or the ripest fruit and veg, the most fabulous cheese, fresh bread, whatever takes your fancy. Then you sit down and have a little lunch, maybe a glass of wine, and then head off home. This is the way to do your weekly shop my friends. Safeway it ain’t. I’m a convert. Best. Thing. Ever. We visited the Saumur market which had the most epic cheese selection I’ve ever seen in my life, as well as delicious everything else. We bought a rotisserie chicken and they poured the chicken juice into the bag with the chicken. Genius! It was all amazing. Mr T had to drag me away from patisserie van. There were tears. I love this country!

Here are some other quick fire recommendations if you make it to Loire Valley:

Chinon - fantastic little town on a hillside overlooking the Loire. Amazing little boulangerie/patisserie in town called Fournil du Chateau which does fantastic everything!

Charles Jouget winery - really friendly winery with lovely wines at very reasonable prices. 

Domaine Arnaud Lambert - wonderful winery, all biodynamic wines and they are absolutely terrific. Monsieur Lambert is a real joy to taste with, he is very passionate about the Loire region so he's an incredible chap to chat to.

L'instant cafe, Saumur - wonderful modern cafe with great food and the loveliest people who run it. Good fun after Saturday market.

Aux Saveurs de la Tonnelle wine shop and wine bar, Saumur - both the shop and the wine bar are wonderful, an amazing selection in both and the locals all visit regularly which is a good sign. Both places were recommended by every local we met and it did not disappoint.

So next we’re off to La Rochelle and Il de Re for some seaside fun. It’ll be short but we’ll try and pack a lot in to keep you entertained. See you there!