With the car packed to the gunnels with four humans, one dog, a whole lot of luggage and not an inch to spare, we lolloped along the motorway in a torrential downpour for 240kms to reach San Sebastián in Spain. 

It’s fair to say we haven’t been short of a good meal or two up to now, but San Sebastián promised next level gastronomic delight. Let me tell you right now, it did not disappoint. Popular opinion holds that San Sebastián is now the food capital of the world, for a couple of reasons. As you may have already heard, San Sebastián has the highest number of Michelin star restaurants per capita than anywhere else. And that’s great, if you can afford it, as a once in a blue moon treat. But what makes San Sebastián special for me is the amazing “every day” food, in particular the pintxos and the food you get from seemingly standard cafes which is absolutely superb and unlikely to break even the smallest of travel budgets. 

The thing to do here is to wander around town, stop in when you see a good looking bar or restaurant, grab a glass of wine (Txakolí is a favourite) or Basque cider and enjoy a few snacks which are sat on the bar top looking delicious. You have a couple bites here, a few drinks there, and if you feel like dinner later there are plenty of options. If not you keep on walking and snacking. Oh what a joy!

So that’s what we did. Even the non-stop bucketing rain didn’t put us off, we just sauntered around town, popping into anywhere that took our fancy and snaffling delicious treats. Aside from one minor incident with either a mackerel or sardine where I thought I was going into anaphylactic shock (for the record everyone except Emma was too busy stuffing their faces to worry too much, thanks Em, luv ya), everything we tried was absolutely outstanding. For a couple of euros a piece, you can eat like a Queen.

The day we were all excited about, and we’d been eagerly awaiting since it was booked a long time ago, was a lunch at world-renowned Arzak. At a house that has been in the family for generations, father Juan Mari and daughter Elena Arzak run the restaurant together. He was the creator of modern Basque cooking and one of the most famous chefs in Spain, and she was voted one of the very best chefs in the world, so we were expecting great things. All of those expectations were totally blown away. I can’t do the dishes justice by describing them here, it would almost be an insult to you and the food! But I can say this: other than my Mum’s roast lamb dinner, it was the best food I’ve ever eaten in my life. Full stop. I’ve been lucky enough to eat at some world-class restaurants in the past, but this was a cut above in so many ways. The service was impeccable but not stuffy or intrusive, every single member of the team was so friendly and either they're Oscar winning actors or they all love what they do.

After lunch, we were lucky enough to meet both legends in person and I had to stop myself from weeping with delight. They were both so wonderful and generous with their time, and kindly put up with me babbling about “life changing experiences” and the like. Luckily Mr T couldn’t reach to kick me in the shin and tell me to get it together. 

And so we wobbled out and swore to each other we did not need to eat for another month. And yet…

There were still a few pintxos places we had to try and we couldn't leave without trying the world famous cheesecake from La Viña. I couldn’t let you down, you see. So that evening we hiked our trousers over our ever expanding girth and sauntered into town promising not to go too silly. And we were rather restrained I thought. That cheesecake though. Wow. I’m so glad I was full because I wouldn’t like to be responsible for the gluttony that would have occurred if I was hungry.

It wasn’t all stuffing our faces though. We did some wonderful walks along the beaches as well as well as hiking up Mount Urgull to see a 12th Century fortress and Sacred Heart statue, and round the point where we nearly got blown away. I have to say, it was tremendous exercise walking against a howling gale. Believe it or not there were people in swimming every day. Not in wetsuits mind you, just your regular old swimsuit. I guess if I lived in close proximity to such good food, I'd need to get my arse out in the ocean and swim a few laps too.

So thoughts on San Sebastián. Is it a pretty city? This is just one person’s opinion and we did see it in wet, windy and cold conditions, but if you’re expecting the dazzling beauty of say Barcelona, Madrid or other cities, I’m afraid it does not stack up. I’m sure with a coat of sunshine, the beaches are beautiful and wandering around the old town with it’s beautiful churches is wonderful, but you asked my opinion, and I need to be ruthless here. But you don’t come here for your eyes to be wowed. You should come here to enjoy the wonderful Basque welcome, the lovely people, the history and, of course, you should come here for your stomach. If you come for that, you will leave wonderfully fat and happy! 

So here are some recommendations for when you head that way:
Arzak - obvi! I'll brace you right now, it's very very expensive but very very worth it.
La Viña - do not miss this cheesecake
La Cuchara de San Telmo - this place has amazing pork cheek, pigs ear and all manner of delightful nibbles
Gandarias - great pintxos and amazing steak if you fancy a full sit down meal. The black pudding with the egg on top got the thumbs up from our crew
Atari Gastroteka - this place was seemingly heaving with locals after church on a Tuesday night which I'd say is a good sign. Fun to hang out with the locals and we even sat outside for extra local effect! 
Hotel Maria Cristina - this is a wonderful hotel, steeped in history as it was used as the civil war HQ of Franco’s forces. There are even still bullet holes in the façade. Incredible service, comfy rooms, total winner.