Barking in Barbaresco and Barolo
First of all, let me apologise for my extended absence and extreme tardiness here at Tails of Wine, I realise it’s been a very long time between posts. I won’t bore you with the details, but let’s just say my beloved MacBook Pro suffered a rather unfortunate incident with a champagne bucket, and alas, is no longer for this world. RIP little buddy, I’m sorry I couldn’t save you in the end. That said, if it’s your time, bowing out covered in champagne in a great little place in Italy is a good way to go. We should all be so lucky.
The lovely people at Apple came to my rescue and I have purchased a shiny new MacBook Pro, which is currently winging itself to me as we speak (a great silver lining if ever there was one). So that’s my excuse for leaving you high and dry, you know it’s a true story because even I couldn't make that up.
Anyway, where were we? Ah yes, we’d just left Courchevel in the French Alps and we were on our way to the great wine regions of Barbaresco and Barolo in Italy. We had quite a lovely drive through the Alps and before we knew it, we were at the toll booth of a very large tunnel called the Tunnel du Fréjus. After some desperate Google Translate action as we waited to pay, we found out that we would enter the tunnel in France and pop out in Italy 8 miles later (and 50 euro lighter in the wallet). What I didn’t know at the time, is at the mid point of the tunnel is Fréjus Underground Laboratory, home to the Neutrino Ettore Majorana Observatory (super catchy name, rolls right off the tongue). Way down there in the tunnel, there's a group of scientists researching “neutrinoless double beta decay.” What that is, you’ll have to find out for yourself. I spent half an hour trying to figure it out and gave myself a headache. If I’d known there were a bunch of white coats down there in the dark, I would have waved on the way past. Good luck to you fellas.
A few hours later, we pulled up to a smashing little B&B called the Langhe Country Hotel, run by Nadia and Alessandro. As soon as you arrive, you know this place is a little special. Nadia used to be an architect and is passionate about cooking and wine. Alessandro spent his life in customer service. So combine the two, and you have an amazingly decorated country house with great food and wine and outstanding hospitality. Heaven!
After all the food and wine we’ve been consuming over the past few weeks (months!), we decided to explore Barbaresco and Barolo on foot and do some good hiking. We read about a lot of trails around the region, so figured we’d get out there now the weather has perked up. What better way to experience a place than to walk all day from village to village and enjoy a little food and wine along the way. Picnic packed, boots strapped on, off we went.
As with all things on this trip, it’s not as easy as you think it’s going to be. We were supposed to leave from the charming hilltop town of Neive. Only we couldn’t find the trail. As instructed by the website we were using, we had to look for a trail marked with a bunch of grapes logo. We went forward and back and around, until we decided to hit up the tourist information center. Mr T went in, came back out to get his wallet, and went back in again. Ten minutes later, he reappeared.
I watched as he unfurled the world’s largest map. Some of it was in English, some of it not, there were lines and squiggles and all sorts.
Me: “That looks promising. Did they say it would help?”
Him: “Not sure, no one spoke English.”
Me: “In the tourist information center, no one spoke any English?”
Him: “Only enough for me to pay 5 euros for the map.”
We sat on the bench looking at a map, which was of course completely different to the map online, and tried to figure out a strategy. Which is to say that I sat there being quietly supportive while Mr T worked his map magic. As you all know by now, I’m directionally challenged and can’t be trusted with map work.
So off we set half an hour later, iPhone in one hand, giant map in the other, determined to find the trail if it killed us. And it nearly did. The first 10 minutes involved walking on a main road with no sidewalk, as crazy Italian drivers hurtled towards us, usually with their mobile phone in one hand and a cigarette in the other. Then our views really went downhill as we traipsed past a rather charming cement factory and storage depot. And then it started to rain. Just as we were about to pack up and go home, we found the trail. Not the one on the map mind you, or the one with the grapes (in fact we never found a single grape logo the entire time) but the familiar red and white stripe that denotes a GR footpath. So we were off, finally, into the countryside for a wonderous hike.
And it was smashing for about 10 minutes until we encountered the first of what would be many, many dogs. Here’s the thing you should know if you’re going to hike in Italy (or France, Spain or Portugal for that matter). Many of the trails run right past people’s property, and almost everyone has at least one dog. Many properties don’t have any fences and often the dogs are left to roam about of their own accord. Until now, we’ve mostly met curious, friendly dogs who’s only crime is that they really, REALLY want to be friends with Shadow <cue the look of absolute disgust from the WonderDog>. But in Barbaresco, we experienced a different thing altogether. Agitated, cranky dogs who take great exception to you being close to their land. After the second dog came at us guns blazing, I decided we needed a plan.
Me: “Right, get my rape alarm out of the backpack. I’m going to find a stick.”
Mr T: “Your what?”
Me: “Rape alarm. Little red thing in the backpack.”
Mr T: “Oh that’s what this is?”
Me: <brandishing a large stick baton> “Right if shit gets real, you grab the dog, I’ll unleash holy hell.”
Mr T: “That seems like a terrible division of labour…”
He was right of course, so instead we settled into a somewhat predictable rhythm of rounding a corner, getting charged by a dog or two, Mr T playing the calm yet assertive big guy, fending off any moves towards the WonderDog and I, and if things really escalated, I’d unleash a hardcore, mad-as-hell volley of abuse and growling that would make a Rottweiler proud. The WonderDog, usually not shy about throwing the first growl, always stayed behind me, dead still with a look of “you guys got this, right?” on her face. Worked every time.
The hairiest moment was about half way through, when we started to descend a hill and were greeted by a cacophony of barks. The first scout dog came up the hill, barking all the way. As we got closer to the house, we saw a second, then a third. By the time we got level with the rather helpful “Attenti al Cane” (Beware of Dog) sign, I counted five in total on the loose around us. The WonderDog didn’t protest when I picked her up, in fact if it wasn’t for the barking I’m sure I would have heard a sigh of relief. We got through there in one piece with some ace teamwork, which I imagine looked something like this, but I’ll be happy to never do that again.
Right after that, our map led us very much astray and we had to crawl on our hands and knees through thick brambles and mud to get to the path again. But anything was better than running the gauntlet of gnashing teeth that we’d just come through, so we pressed on and finally emerged through the thicket 20 minutes later, feeling scratched up but proud.
It was all plain sailing from then on, a lovely 13 mile hike up and down the hills of Barbaresco, stopping for a wonderful picnic overlooking the valley. We even stopped in to an old chapel which is now an enoteca for some wine tasting which was an unexpected delight. Wine never tastes so good as when you’ve stared down angry dogs at every turn.
Not easily intimidated, this merry crew was off again the next day, this time from Barolo which was altogether a much more pleasurable experience. The weather was perfect, the signposts were clear and frequent and the only dogs we ran into were curious and ready to get very friendly with the WonderDog (and were given a rather sharp reprimand as a result!) If you're in Piedmont, I'd recommend any and every hike around that area, it's absolutely splendid. It also seems more open to have people pop in to try wine rather than always having to make an appointment, but we didn't put that theory to the test so it's hard to say.
Talking of wine, let me give you some recommendations of some wonderful wines we tried, because the wine from this region really is some of the best in the world. Our first visit was to Poderi Colla, an estate started by Tino Colla and his niece Frederica, with Tino’s brother, legendary winemaker Beppe Colla, at the helm making the wines. I could tell you about the family being involved in wine for centuries. I could tell you about their vineyards, some of the best in all of Barolo. But you can read about all of that later, first you need to try this wine. It’s outstanding.
Then there’s the great traditional estate of Francesco Rinaldi e Figli, one of the most famous names in Barolo. If you have a chance to visit, you’ll notice it appears unassuming from the outside but you’ll be amazed at the history of this place. These wines will age incredibly well, if you have the patience you’ll be rewarded!
And so to my absolute favourite winery in the region, G.D. Vajra. Every single wine we tried was a winner, from the sparkling rose through to the world class Barolo Bricco Delle Viole. It’s a family run business and if you visit, I hope you have the good fortune to meet Milena Vajra, she is an absolute treat to talk to. Their wine making philosophy and history is fascinating, Milena and her husband, along with all three of their children put their heart and soul into these wines, and it shows. Seek out these wines wherever you are, they are tremendous
Here are another couple of quick fire recommendations for you if you happen to find yourself in Barolo or Barbaresco (and I'd highly recommend you visit, we will definitely be coming back):
Stay at: Arborina Realis, an absolute delight of a boutique hotel, make sure you eat dinner at the restaurant at least once, the food is incredible and the staff are the friendliest in Barolo. It’s near the little town of La Morra which is a great place to walk around and enjoy some gelato and, of course, lots of wine.
Eat at: The best restaurant in the area is Campermac in Barbaresco. The food is epic and the service is so good. Even though it was wall to wall Italians, they didn’t frown upon tourists and treated us so well. Their wine cellar has to be seen to be believed. We went for lunch but we would have gone back for dinner if we could.
Visit: Neive is a charming little town with cobble streets, great wine bars and good restaurants. Barbaresco and Barolo are both lovely, I think Barolo has the edge if you can only visit one.
Drink more wine: I’ve talked a lot about red wine here but the whites are just as good. Arneis is something I haven’t had before but it’s a varietal I’m in love with. Meaning rascal in Italian (how can you not love that!), the grape was nearly extinct at one point, but thankfully it’s made a come back in a big way. You’ll see it called Roero Arneis and you should try it. I think you’ll like it.
And so we wave goodbye to Barolo and head off to a wine region that you may not have heard of - Franciacorta - billed as Italy’s “most chill” wine region. We’ll see about that! See you there.
