Alps for Days
I’ve always had a bit of a thing for the Alps. Not sure why, although I think Julie Andrews may be to blame. I can’t watch the opening scene of the Sound of Music without wanting to book a flight to the Alps and frolic in the meadows. I hold her entirely responsible for my obsession. Although we had a dose of the French Alps a few weeks back, when the chance came up to hit the Italian Alps, I was all about it.
Not just the Italian Alps, but the Maritime Alps no less. If you’ve never heard of such a place don’t worry, neither had I. Nor have a lot of people it seems, because we barely heard any other tourist voices while we were there. The Maritime Alps rise majestically out of the horizon like proud soldiers, protecting the province of Cuneo from any ne’re-do-wells that might come knocking. It’s hard to put into words how you feel when you gaze out at them, it simply takes your breath away. Why more people don’t visit this region is beyond me, but I’m not complaining - I love a place with no tourists. The only downside was not a single postcard shop could be found in the town, a bit of a shame for those of us who like a good postcard (I don’t care if it’s old fashioned, so am I!)
We decided to stay in Fossano which is in the heart of the Cuneo province. I’d love to tell you more about it, but as I said, this isn’t really a tourist destination so information is a bit scarce. I can tell you it has some wonderful little streets to wander down, a great little Wednesday market in the main square, and a glorious route for an evening stroll, or “passaggiata” as the locals call it, right around the walled town. Our hotel was just around the corner from an old music school, so it was quite splendid to stroll of an evening and hear the odd trumpet solo or piano number.
I should mention that we were joined on this part of the trip by special guest star Trudy, direct from California. On our first evening, we decided on a pre dinner drink in the sunshine. Here’s something you should know about this part of the world. When you order a drink, they bring free snacks, sort of like tapas in Spain. You may already know this. Trudy and Mr T did, which is why they looked on in horror when I waved the poor waiter away when he came with a plate laden with goodies.
Me: “Oh no sorry we didn’t order any food.”
<blank stare from everyone>
Me: “You must have the wrong table.”
Waiter: “You don’t want?”
Me: “Oh no thank you, we didn’t order food.”
It all happened in a blink of an eye, he disappeared back inside just in time for Mr T and Trudy to recover and tell me that I’d just sent away our snacks and no doubt mortally offended the poor man. If you’re reading this Sir, I apologise. I’m an idiot.
The next morning we decided to head to Cuneo for a warm up walk before the real hiking began. Being a Sunday, we just so happened to stumble upon the weekly market which was in full swing. Tables stacked high with fresh fruit and veg, incredible local cheeses and slabs of porchetta the size of small humans were a beautiful sight to behold. You could also buy just about anything else you might need in life. Plants and seeds, lawnmowers, kitchen equipment, clothes, dog food, even rather fetching purses with cat faces on them. Something for everyone.
Our walk took us out of town and along by the river with a view of the Alps at every turn. Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, we came across a real life shepherd, complete with herding stick and very cute sheep dog, moving his floppy eared sheep along the path, bells jingling as they went. The Wonderdog was absolutely mesmerized, I have a feeling she fancies herself as a wannabe sheepdog and couldn’t take her eyes off the whole spectacle. I had to be gently restrained from making a beeline for the little lambs. The shepherd, on the other hand, was slightly less excited to see us and gave us some serious side eye, he also may have muttered something like "keep your hands off my sheep crazy lady" in Italian.
The next day was our first real hike along the La Via di Teit, or Roof Road, which promised great alpine hiking winding through little abandoned villages before heading up hill to great views across the valley. We didn’t get to the summit sadly, as the snow was still pretty thick, so instead we chose another route back along a beautiful river where all the wild flowers were bursting out in full colour. I say “we” chose a route back, but of course you know that’s not true. Mr T does all the hard yards, I just follow along behind him like a little duckling. If I was in charge of map reading, we’d still be up the side of the mountain in the snow.
By the way, Trudy and Mr T thought it was a cracking idea to head into this tunnel (cave) in the pictures below, to see what was at the other side. I was too busy taking pictures, so by the time I got to go through, I was far behind them and they were off into the pitch darkness. As you'll already know by now, I’m frightened of the dark and I REALLY don’t like bats. Should have stayed in the sunshine and waited for them, that’s all I really need to say about that.
Now we were suitably warmed up, the next day was the big one. A 10 mile, 3700 ft elevation hike up to the top of Monte San Bernardo. Again, I would love to tell you all about the mountain, who first climbed it, who put the huge cross at the top, tell you more about the grave of a fallen solider we found along the way. Alas, information is sadly lacking about the whole area, or at least it is in English. What I can tell you is it’s part of the 5,000 km Via Alpina, or Alpine Road, and forms a section of the Red Trail, which winds it’s way through eight countries and crosses boarders 44 times. I can also tell you that it is the most spectacular, soul restoring hike I’ve ever done. It has everything you could wish for, alpine forest, stunning views from rocky outcrops, snowy meadows, carpets of spring flowers, crystal clear streams, and a constant chorus of birdsong. Divine. You can tell how wonderful it was from the overload of photos below, I just couldn't stop!
Our souls restored, we headed off to Camiore on the western side of Tuscany. Needing a quick pit stop on the way, we stretched our legs in Rapallo on the Italian Riviera. Given it’s proximity to glamour puss Portofino, and historically dramatic Cinque Terra, little Rapallo doesn’t get much of a look in. And that’s a real shame because it’s a smashing little town. We mooched around town for a while, the Wonderdog had a swim off the quayside and then we headed over to a little fishing boat serving freshly catch of the day, lightly fried, with glasses of white wine. If you happen to be in Rapallo, head to the quay and find the boat “Sapore d’aMare,” order a fritto di paranza and a glass of white, pull up a stool and get after it!
Once in Camiore, we found a slice of heaven on earth called Locanda al Colle, which means “Inn at the hill.” Just about everything at this boutique guest-house is perfection, from the comfortable beds, the beautiful decor, the gorgeous pool where we spent many hours, and the food. Oh, the food. Executive Chef Gina Luca comes from a Michelin trained background and wow does it show. What that man can do with puff pasty! The day we arrived, we were treated to a front row seat in the open plan kitchen/dining room, where we watched Gian Luca work his magic and every single course was out of this world. We ate sourdough from his mother’s recipe, asparagus grown by his mother in law, a special type of lardo that is cured in marble molds then covered in thick marble blankets from the Carrara marble quarries nearby. Risotto with wild flowers, traditional beef stew, homemade chocolate liqueur. I could go on and on. The dinner was so good we booked for the next dinner a few days later which was even more incredible. And don’t even get me started on the breakfasts! You need to go and stay at Locanda, chat with the owner Riccardo over a glass of wine, eat with Gian Lucca, and feel as relaxed as you've ever been. This place is heaven.
So that's how we spent our days, paddling in the ocean with the Wonderdog, exploring nearby towns of Lucca and the beautifully artistic Pietrasanta, hiking in the trails near Camiore, fooling around doing handstands in the pool and drinking lovely wine on the terrace - one of the most relaxing places on earth. We also unwittingly discovered the nudist beach in town, it was about half way through our walk along the sands when we realized every one else was naked. I think we all got a crick in the neck from politely looking out to sea.
The pain of leaving Locanda was soothed a little as we ended our trip in the most spectacular fashion, with a quick stop to see a friend from California who happened to be renting a villa not too far away (it’s a small world, after all!) There’s a lot of things about Tuscany that I love, but sitting in a villa with friends drinking great wine, eating amazing food and looking out on to a Tuscan sunset has to be the very best way to live.
Which is why we are in Tuscany for another week, we are just in love with this place. Next stop is the great wines of Montepulciano and Montalcino. Wine me up baby!
P.S. Just one more amazing memory from our wonderful hike up Monte San Bernardo - a 360 view from the top of the world! (sorry for the shoddy camera work, it was a little uneven underfoot!)
